Chef Nobu Matsuhisa Reflects on 30 Years of Nobu’s Global Success

By: Laura Eckstein Jones

Chef Nobu Matsuhisa looks back on 30 years of Nobu.

Chef Nobu Matuhisa; PHOTO COURTESY OF NOBU

When you opened the first Nobu 30 years ago, what was the sushi scene like in NY and L.A.?

People were just starting to become more comfortable with raw fish. I liked to show them that it was accessible. I always listened to my guests and some of my signature dishes were even made in response to specific guest requests—like New Style Sashimi. When I first served sushi in Los Angeles 30 years ago, a lot of people liked their fish cooked, not raw. I once had a customer send back a sashimi dish because she wouldn’t eat raw fish. I wanted to find some way to salvage the dish, so I grabbed hot oil that was sitting on the stove and poured it over the fish, searing it on contact. The customer was hesitant when I asked her to try it, but she ate every bite.

Uber-fresh nigiri; PHOTO COURTESY OF NOBU

How did Nobu stand out from other Japanese restaurants that were open then?

Our concept has always been to provide our guests with good food using quality ingredients, with exceptional service in a beautifully designed and welcoming space. I think this simple philosophy has kept guests coming back.

What were some of the popular dishes on the menu at the time?

Many of our original dishes are still on the menu today. Some of these signatures are white fish tiradito, yellowtail jalapeno and black cod miso.

When you opened Nobu on La Cienega, how did you differentiate it from Matsuhisa?

After opening the original Nobu in Tribeca, I was confident that the concept would work well in L.A. Nobu has always been different from Matsuhisa in terms of scale and location. But because of my success with Matsuhisa in Beverly Hills, I knew people were more open-minded to Nobu-style cuisine.

What are some standout moments from over the years regarding Nobu? What are some things you are proud of?

My mother passed away in 2006. In 1989, I invited her to visit my very first restaurant in Los Angeles and I was able to cook for her. I’ve cooked for a lot of celebrities and famous people, but this was the most special guest for me. This was the most memorable.

Another memory is when I was also able to cook for Princess Diana in London back in 1997. I was so excited to meet her, but when I introduced myself, she knew me already. She had eaten at my restaurant!

Black Cod Miso has been on the Nobu menu since the start, and is still one of the restaurant’s most popular dishes; PHOTO COURTESY OF NOBU

Looking back, is there anything you’d do differently?

I wouldn’t change a single thing. My challenges and accomplishments made me the man and the chef I am today.

What still drives you?

For me, walking into a restaurant and seeing all the guests smiling and hearing the sound of laughter and good times is the best feeling. When I see happy faces, I know we have done well. I also travel so often to continue growing Nobu into a global lifestyle brand and pass on my philosophies and lessons to the next generation of our team. Although I have had successes throughout my career, I am always motivated by new goals and benchmarks.

What do you have planned for the Nobu brand?

Our brand expansion will continue with new restaurants and hotel openings in DeNang, Bangkok, Rome and several more cities over the next two to three years.

Tiradito—raw white fish with yuzu, lemon juice and cilantro. Each piece has a dot of rocoto pepper and a sprinkle of soy salt; PHOTO COURTESY OF NOBU

What’s your go-to order at Nobu?

Yellowtail jalapeno, umami sea bass or black cod miso, some nigiri and sashimi, and miso soup to finish.

What would you like your legacy to be?

I want my legacy passed through my chefs, both old and new. Being a good chef is not only technique—to reach the next step, the chef needs to become a leader. Leader means technical skill and mental, also. A leader has to be complete. A leader needs to challenge and teach the next generation.

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